Ancora all'italiano

Laan van Nieuw Oosteinde, Voorburg, Netherlands, December 29, 2015—

YES: A BIG PLATE of antipasto, in an enoteca-slash-osteria here in Voorburg, run by a Napolitano who likes to accommodate his clients with a big smile and a good kitchen. (I know, not napolitano, but a big favorite with the Dutch), and ravioli in cream sauce with truffles.

And for dessert, a marvelous zuccotto, made in house, like everything else. A neighborhood gem, this place; and it operates a take-out, too.

Falanghina Beneventano, "Antica Fattoria," 2014; Barbaresco, Roberto Sarotto "Currà," 2006, very nice

•Osteria Elpidio, Herenstraat 87, Voorburg; 070-412-9121
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants