Wednesday, August 1, 2018


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Salt Lake City, July 31, 2018—

NOT MANY DISCOVERIES more pleasing than a really good (north) Italian restaurant in an unexplored city. That's what we found tonight: a quiet, comfortable, slow-paced white-linen restaurant with no more than a dozen tables in a modest bungalow, with two men, apparently, in the small kitchen, and a menu and wine list that offer many pleasures.

I began with Tartar di carne Piemontese, of course, because I never pass up the chance. This one was simply presented, the beef mixed with a judicious amount of very finely minced shallot, surrounded with a swirl of egg yolk perhaps heated to a low temperature, then cooled, and scattered with capers. The meat was certainly Piemontese, sweet and grassy. Delicious.

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Bigoli Peperonata\

Next, Bigoli con Ragù di Anatra, housemade pasta with duck ragù, the pasta cooked to quite a firm al dente, the ragù nicely balanced, again proportioned beautifully in the presentation.

With it, for the table, a marvelous peperonata, sweet and fruity with a very delicated tang.

     🍷Pecorino, Valori (Abruzzo), 2016; Dolcetto d'Alba, Filari Lunghi, 2014 (thoughtful, complex, reserved but generous)

•Veneto Ristorante Italiano, 370 East 900 South, Salt Lake City; 📞+1(801)359-0708

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