Lessons not learned

Via Damaso Cerquetti, April 5, 2017—

NOT THAT MANY YEARS ago we found a delightful trattoria just far enough away from the Piazza Navona to be safe from the mobs — the clientele seemed to be locals happy with a small menu of typical Roman entries. After a quick dodge through a jam-packed Campo de' Fiori and Pantheon, the shorts-and-T-shirt crowd at the Piazza Navona — I'm beginning to realize April just before Easter is not a good time to visit the seat of Christianity — we fell upon this refuge once more, about two o'clock in the afternoon.

The place has been much remodelled, opened up, brightened, and discovered. I was already disgruntled by the crowds and the noise, and two dashing young priests soberly discussing their menus in German, then eating their pizzas with knife and fork and washing it down with Coca-Cola at the next table didn't help, nor did the angry baby a couple of table away. I am too old and, I suspect you'll say, too snobbish for this. I don't know if I'll return.

But maybe I will: the meal was good. I started with a nice big carciofa alla Romana, a half artichoke boiled, then served on a pool of oil; and continued with a fine fettuccine alla grigia, wonderful thick house-made pasta quite al dente, generously sprinkled with fine thick strips of pancetta, dressed with good pecorino cheese. I think this was one of the best interpretations of the dish I've had.

> We lingered in spite of the noise for a macedonia, a refreshing tumble of orange, apple, pineapple, kiwi, and strawberry, lightly sweetened. A fine lunch.

     Ribolla Gialla, La Tunella (Friuli Colli Orientali), 2016: yes yes yes.
•Da Francesco, Piazza del Fico 29, Rome; +39 06 6864009

☛RESTAURANTS VISITED, with information and rating: 2016      2015     2017