|Endive, roe, chives|
|Striped bass and sea scallop|
|Agnolotti in brodo|
The wine does not taste at all like a typical Vermentino; it's spent time on the lees, with an almost Sherry-like result — lending further structure to the delicate salad.
The Riesling surprised me with its own delicacy; it might have been better to reverse its position with the preceding Vermentino.
Nebbiolo was a fitting choice to complement this complex meat course, and this bottle was characteristic and mature.
It's so interesting to think of this meal in the context of the previous night's. Many similarities: fish, fowl, the Italian influences — but very different experiences, like feminine-masculine, or Torino-Firenze. These dinners seems to me to prove the capability cuisine has of achieving a truly artistic level, combining deep appreciation of the media, intelligent awareness of history, and imaginative vision of possibilities. Sitting at this table you can't help become more appreciative, more thoughtful, above all grateful to those who have brought it to this degree of perfection…
• Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510-548-5525
☛Restaurants visited in the last year are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants