Berkeley, January 26, 2016—
THIS IS WHAT I mean by cuisine as fundamental to culture. It's not often I get to play paterfamilias at a long table, but I enjoy it when I can. The occasion here was the thirteenth birthday of our youngest grandchild — that's him at the left, looking pleased: and why not? It was, of course, a delicious dinner, and a fine occasion.
My son and I ate exactly the same: half a dozen oysters on the half shell; braised pork shoulder with new potatoes, sweet-sour red cabbage, mustard, and sage. A good country plat principal ; a celebratory entrée. Dessert: apple galette with rum-raisin ice cream. Yes.
Rosé: Cotaux d'Aix, Les Béatines, Domaine les Béates, 2014
• Café Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510.548.5525
Oh: and before dinner, a delicious house Old Fashioned next door:
• César, 1515 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510.883.0222
☛Restaurants visited in the last year are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants
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