Lunch back in the café

Eastside Road, April 22, 2014—

BACK TO BERKELEY yesterday, so lunch upstairs in the café, with a couple of acquaintances I'd like to get to know better — farmers, travelers, bons vivants. I began with a delicious little pizzetta with tomato sauce, brandade, green olives, and mint — an interesting and refreshing combination.

Then, because the next few weeks will be devoted to chicken research, this Riverdog Farm chicken confit, sliced breast and the drumstick, tender and nicely flavored, with good texture. On the plate, lentils and — a favorite of mine — celery root remoulade; with judicious capers and fried sage leaves. Almost makes me want to cook!

• Café Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510.548.5525

For supper, all we needed was a small green salad from the garden and a couple of slices of toast with olive oil. And a glass of Barolo. We'll fast today…