Saturday, April 12, 2014

Acceptable and reliable

Pasadena, April 11, 2014—

MIDDAY, AND HUNGRY in Pasadena's "Old Town," a busy ode to complacent middle-class consumerism. Plenty of places to choose from, but we're right here at this one, we've tried it before and found it acceptable, why not?

I started with this plate of carpaccio — very thin slices of what's undoubtedly feedlot beef, but I rationalize they're very thin and probably won't kill me. Young, creamy, thin-sliced Parmesan. Arugulal. Lemon juice, and a scatter of capers in the judicious drizzle of olive oil. 

Afterward, orecchiete with sausage and… don't recall; didn't take notes. The theme this week is Calabria; I know it was nicely seasoned with chili flakes…

Acceptable Pinot grigio

• Il Fornaio, 24 W Union Street, Pasadena; (626) 683-9797

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