Omelet

Eastside Road, March 4, 2014—

A COUPLE OF FRIENDS up today from the city, to visit and lunch and walk around our town, so this week we'll fast on Wednesday, not the usual Tuesday. We lunched at a place Lindsey likes in town, where we four split kale salad and spinach salad and the delicious buttery sautéed spinach with lemon marmalade, and I went on to steamed mussels and French fries. I like mussels, but I'm not persuaded by the version served here: instead of white wine, the broth is based on Pabst Blue Ribbon beer, and the beer's reaction with the mussels and the pot they're served in had an unpleasant bitterness I'll avoid in the future.

Vouvray, Domaine Pichot, 2012

• Willi's Seafood Raw Bar, 403 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg; 707.433.9191

THAT OF COURSE was the principal meal of the day. Tonight we needed nothing more than the omelet you see above, cooked my way: break your eggs into a bowl; rinse your hands in water and drop a little into the eggs, whisk them up with a fork but not too much, pour into a hot omelet pan lubricated with olive oil.

I lift the edges of the egg as it cooks, then turn it out onto the warmed dinner plate, where I fill it with grated cheese, folding it over, strewing salt and pepper and a little more cheese on top. Served, as you see, with toast — preferably, as here, Como bread from the Downtown Bakery and Creamery.

Dessert: a small bowl of applesauce, made from our Calville blanc apples a year or two ago — what a fine flavor that apple has!

Pinot grigio, Churchill Vineyards (Nevada!), 2011