A splendid veal chop

Leavenworth Street, San Francisco, February 14, 2014—

LUNCH, YES, WELL, lunch was quite okay, once past the disappointment that the daily special — linguine with kale — was available only at dinner. I settled for a simple pizza, Calabrese, with ricotta and mozzarella, dried black olives and plenty of chili flakes. Afterward, a good affogatto — the ice cream here is quite good.

Aglianico in the glass

• Paisan, 2514 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley: 510-649-1031

THEN DINNER TONIGHT at the home of a couple of dear old friends, and Andrew cooked. What a fine meal! After apéritifs — kir royale with pomegranate in lieu of cassis (a delicious inspiration) we sat down to a succulent, generous veal chop, beautifully sautéed, with a red wine reduction highlighted by I know not what green herb, asparagus on the side. And for dessert a fine apple-raisin-sliced almond tarte. This chop was one of the finest things I've eaten this year.

Pinot grigio, Main and Geary (Sonoma county), 2012: very nice pointed flavor; Cabernet sauvignon, "Taxi Cab," private production from the chef's own hand, 1995, perfectly balanced, mature but still fruity — thanks, Andrew!