Meat loaf

Aptos, August11, 2013—

I SUPPOSE IT DOESN'T look all that appetizing, but then meat loaf rarely does. The quintessential American comfort food, it has few aspirations. But I like it, and when it turned up on an inexpensive marketing gimmick it proved irresistible. And in fact it was pretty darn good, a little carrotty, devoid of catsup, but with those mashed potatoes… on the side, no-nonsense spinach.

Cheap Cabernet sauvignon by the glass

• Bittersweet Bistro, 787 Rio Del Mar Blvd, Aptos, California; (831) 662-9799