Lunch and supper in town

Eastside Road, February 26, 2013—

BUSINESS IN TOWN today, including lunch at Chez Panisse: Celery and celery root salad with citrus, capers, and mint; then grilled mackerel with tiny artichokes, fennel purée, wilted escarole, and pancetta. I thought the pancetta a good foil to the mackerel, oily as it always must be, and the artichokes quite delicious.

Rosé

• Café Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510.548.5525

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THEN AN EARLY SUPPER in Oakland, to sit out the commute-hour traffic. I had simply the revisionist steak tartare you see here, nice young raw beef with chopped capers and onions already mixed in, along with a little olive oil, and a just-set fried egg on top, because Oakland, I suppose, bans raw egg from restaurants. I liked the watercress accompaniment, and the mildly resonant garlic potato chips.

Côteaux du Languedoc, Château du Lascaux, 2009

• Flora, 1900 Telegraph Ave Oakland, California; (510) 286-0100/