Willi's

Healdsburg, June 15, 2012—

DINNER IN TOWN with friends tonight. My, my, Healdsburg is changing. We though it had changed to a fairly permanent form ten years ago or so, but recently it's taken another turn, even further upscale. I see a new hotel is announced on Matheson Street, and new restaurants are opening.

Couldn't get a table at Scopa, or at Barndiva either. Other places would be too noisy for conversation, or too somnolent for fun. So we waitlisted at Willi's, with misgivings on my part; I've always preferred their other location…

When the original not-original Willi's Wine Bar opened on the old highway north of Santa Rosa — the original original Willi's being still in Paris, far as I know — I loved the joint. We had a wonderful night there with four friends. One of them was reviewing the place, so we ordered one of everything and ate our way through the menu: small plates, vaguely Moroccan-Mediterranean, high flavors, good technique.

Then they opened a place in Santa Rosa, Monti's — we had goat there a week or two ago. And then a "seafood bar" in Healdsburg; and then a steak house, Stark and Company, in Santa Rosa; and now I hear they're planning yet another restaurant somewhere.

I have misgivings about this. There's a similar operation in Berkeley, running Lalime's, T Rex, Sea Salt, and Paisan: each different, I think — I've only eaten at Paisan — each popular. But I think a really good restaurant reflects the character of an individual, or of a tight group of individuals, and when a number of satellite operations open, the result is bound to be formulaic. The formula may be good, and interesting; the technique and sourcing can be quite as reliable; but something industrial threatens to seep in.

Add to that the problem of a steady menu and the result however attractive and pleasant, may seem familiar, even routine to repeat visits.

Oh well. We began with very nice oysters on the half shell, local ones of course; I went on to mint-flavored lamb, grilled au point and served with a discreet sweet black soy glaze, with sautéed spinach on the side.

Sauvignon blanc; Zinfandel (local, expensive, delicious, unrecorded)

• Willi's Seafood & Raw Bar, 403 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg; 707.433.9191