Cuban

Oakland, California, June 21, 2012—

LUNCH IN THE CITY with friends — in a place I like the more the more we stop in: and it wasn't surprising to find today that it's owned and run by folks whose previous restaurants were favorites of ours — Zax, first in San Francisco, then in that hard-luck location on Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley.

Today I had the Cuban smoked pork sandwich, lots of meat on a baguette, the bottom nicely soaked in the cooking liquid, hefty oven-baked potatoes and jalapeño relish on the side; and then a delicious polenta pound cake, a huge serving, with beautifully cooked cherries in brandy and balsamic vinegar, served with whipped cream — a hefty meal; good thing we'd fasted yesterday!

Anchor Steam beer

• Sidebar Restaurant, 2210 542 Grand Avenue Oakland; (510) 452-9500