Fish.

Sausalito, June 12, 2012—

PRINCIPAL MEAL OF THE DAY at midday: I like that, particularly on a hot lazy day, particularly with good company and good conversation, particularly at leisure. So we drove an hour south to this quaint marginal tourist town, which we so rarely visit, for an al fresco lunch, where the four of us ordered very nearly one of everything, it seemed.

I began with a cup of delicious Portuguese red chowder: tomatoes, linguiça, clams, madeira, smoked paprika, cilantro, watercress. Then an unfortunately revisionist Tuscan white bean and tuna salad, with grated carrots greatly distracting from the classic tuna-white bean-onion mix.

We split two daily specials, Lindsey and I: a paella with chicken, clams, mussels, a rice too much saffronized (go carefully with saffron, say I, and use good stuff); and a couple of cod steaks on a bed of rather a nice potato gratinée. The fish seemed dry and overcooked to me, but what a pleasant spot for a long lunch…

Dessert? Better have an affogato for the road…

Pinot gris, McFadden (Mendocino county), 2010; Sauvignon blanc, Voss Vineyards (Napa Valley), 2010

• Fish, 350 Harbor Drive, Sausalito; 415.331.3474