The Last of the Salt Cod

Eastside Road, January 10, 2011—

ONE HOPES THAT'S NOT to be taken literally, of course — but some Easter Islander saw the last tree being cut down, and presumably one day someone will eat the last codfish; I only hope it will have been salted; discovered, then eaten, in a spirit of nostalgia, even sorrow.

But that's in the future. The one we finished tonight was a three-and-a-half-pounder, and it's seen us through, let's see, five dinners, the first served to two couples, not just us. You can see why salt cod was a staple for so many centuries, and why wars should have been fought over the fishing banks.


Before the cod we had a reprise of the onion-and-orange salad. It's a welcome dish in winter, when citrus is in season, red onions are still sound and solid, and the colors and piquant flavors are welcome on cold days. Slice 'em up, dress 'em with a little salt and olive oil; that's all you need.

Cheap Pinot grigio; the end of the Pinot noir, De Loach, Masút Vineyard (Redwood Valley, Mendocino county), 2007 (still graceful, true to varietal, beautifully made and balanced, though opened five days ago!)

The big news today eatingwise, though, was breakfast: an omelet from our friend Anandi's hens, one of whom is laying the most amazing doubleyolkers.