Ashland, Sept. 6—
ONE OF MY FAVORITE dishes, worth placing in the top hundred: Fegato Veneziano. Calf's liver, sliced into equal-sized strips, sautéed quickly in butter with perhaps a little olive oil added, turned out, the pan deglazed quickly and poured over, with beautifully sweated thin-sliced onions on the side. And, of course, a triangle or two of polenta, cooked, turned out into a pan, cooled until solid, then cut up and grilled.
To tell the truth that's not quite what we had tonight. The liver was nicely sautéed, but the pan was reduced with a little red wine; shallots were involved as well. But it was quite delicious. For dessert, "spumoni" ice cream: strawberry, chocolate, and green-tinted vanilla with a few chopped pistachios and a hint of spirits.
Vino bianco di Sicilia, "Tinto," 2008; Nero d'Avila, "Tinto," 2007
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