Thursday, March 3, 2016

True cod

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Eastside Road, March 2, 2016—
SINCE WE WERE in Berkeley this morning, we bought fish. One of the few things I still miss, nearly twenty years after leaving Berkeley, is Monterey Fish. We try to shop there when we're in town and on our way home again soon enough to get fresh fish, really fresh fish, into our own refrigerator.

True wild Alaska cod, they said, and just to be sure we compared it, on the plate, with a frozen fillet alleged to be the same, bought from the local Trader Joe. The fresh was better — firmer, flakier, with a cleaner flavor. But the frozen was nearly as good on the palate, if a teeny bit slimy on the tooth.

Cook floured the fish and cooked it in browned butter, meunière style (though without the parsley, she noted), and served it with a quarter lemon and a side of frozen green peas. A delicious light supper.

Green salad afterward, and ice cream with chocolate sauce, and a tangerine.

Cheap Pinot grigio

I SHOULD MENTION our breakfast, in a Berkeley café we quite like. It has, I think, the best coffee in Berkeley. I was content with some buttered Acme levain toast, with a bit of marmalade, to go with mine.

•Bartavelle Coffee & Wine Bar, 1603 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley; 510-524-2473

RESTAURANTS VISITED, with information and rating:  2016   2015

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