WE WERE OUT across county, and a little hungry a little past noon, so we dropped in at a Portuguese place we've meant to try. The same chef had another place in our own town, and we've liked it, but it went out of business a month or so ago, so we particularly wanted to show some support.
I warmed up with three fine grilled sardines, served with a few delicious black olives on a bed of beautifully sweated minced onion — such a simple dish, and so artfully done.
I went on to this bacalhau, as the Portuguese insist on calling bacalao, or baccalà: salt cod and potatoes, served in a rissole in this version, with a hardcooked quail egg and a scatter of cress, in a pool of perfect olive oil. You can't do a lot better than this.
🍷white, Alentejo, 2016, very good
•LaSalette Restaurant, 452 1st Street, Sonoma; 📞707-938-1927
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