Hamburger and salad

San Francisco, March 6, 2015—

LATE LUNCH OR EARLY supper: Caesar salad and a hamburger. These have been old standbys at this restaurant, each perfect to its type: but on this visit the salad didn’t seem up to snuff — the Romaine crowded on its plate, the dressing a little too sour of lemon juice, the anchovy and garlic components too retiring. The hamburger was on the mark, though — but, damn! I forgot to ask for French fries!

Sciaccarello-Nielluccio, Domaine Comte Abbatucci “Cuvée Faustine,” 2011: solid, fruity, very pleasant

• Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco; 415-552-2522
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants