Back to Boxing Room

San Francisco, December 28, 2014—

DINNER IN THE CITY again tonight, at the restaurant where a granddaughter is working as hostess. A Cajun sort of place, where we ate a couple of weeks ago quite successfully. It was quite nice again tonight.

It was easy enough to order: the nightly special on the blackboard promised everything: Crispy pork shoulder with celery root purée, applesauce, roasted carrots and Brussels sprouts, in a pork reduction, with frisée and pickled red onion salad. The pork was nicely braised with the skin still crackling-crisp; the reduction was deep and nicely balanced, the vegetables deeply roasted and full of flavor. With that, a side of fried potatoes, another of corn muffins (soft and succulent).

Afterward, I'm afraid, three desserts: apple cobbler with malt ice cream; bread pudding; beignets. Really a very nice dinner.

Dolcetto, Palmina Vineyards (Santa Barbara), 2011

•Boxing Room Restaurant, 399 Grove Street, San Francisco; 415-430-6590