Italian

Seattle, Washington, June 13, 2014—

I KNOW, IT DOESN'T look very attractive. It tasted very good, though: papardelle with lamb ragù and good sharp salty pecorino, heightened with oregano. Before it, I split a pear-and-gorgonzola salad and downed a cup of Zuppa all’Olio della Villa Otium: cannellini bean and smoked pork jowl soup with croutons, chives, and good olive oil, with good-sized hunks of torn bread filling it out. (And me.)

Volterra house red: Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc, Patterson (Columbia valley), 2011-2012 blend

•Volterra, 5411 Ballard Ave NW, Seattle; (206) 789-5100