Dockside

San Rafael, September 28, 2012—

EN ROUTE TO A delightful concert — music by Darius Milhaud, performed at Mills College — why not stop at a restaurant we haven't visited, particularly since it's owned by a fellow who was a friend and schoolmate when I studied at Mills back in the very early 1960s?

To tell the truth I've lost touch with Phil since. He went his way, I went mine. His way was the Grateful Dead; my way led elsewhere. But those are other stories; this is an eatblog. So: we stopped off a little before our reservation, in time for a decent Martini; and then, since the restaurant overlooks a small boat harbor, we ate seafood. I had this hunk of halibut, beautifully poached, served with green beans, peppers, onions, in a nice oil-based sauté sauce; Lindsey had fish and chips, the fish in a batter so delicate as to be barely there — as good an execution of this classic as I remember seeing anywhere, London included.

Dessert: Well, after the Martini, and a glass of wine, coffee seems to be in order. Fortunately the dessert menu mentions affogato, that indispensable combination of espresso and ice cream. This versions' a bit tarted up, with sliced almonds and Grand Marnier, but oh boy is it delicious.

I'm impressed with Phil's restaurant: we'll definitely return. For one thing it's comfortable, at least early, before the music begins. For another, the sourcing is careful. My dessert, for example, was made with Three Twins organic ice cream and Equator espresso: you can't ask for much more than that. The wine list is interesting, too, but I settled for a glass of

Sauvignon blanc, Terrapin house white (Sonoma valley): good varietal, easy

• Terrapin Crossroads, 100 Yacht Club Drive, San Rafael, California; 415-524-2773