Big dinner, short notice

Cardona, May 29, 2015—

THE PARTY BEGINS: fifteen of us at table tonight, a little more than half the extended family — let's drop that "extended": we are all, as far as I'm concerned, family — that is assembling hereabouts this weekend to celebrate an important birthday. Tomorrow's dinner is the main event, and is pretty well planned, but what to do tonight?

I called a restaurant we've liked in a nearby town. May I reserve a table tonight? Certainly, sir, at what time? Oh, say 8:30? Certainly, sir, for how many?

Here I paused a moment, then bravely plunged on. I think twelve or fourteen, I'm not sure yet.

No problem, sir, call again when you have the exact number…

We arrived to a nearly empty restaurant; I don't know why — Friday is not a popular restaurant night, apparently. Fourteen chairs were at a long table, but at the last minute we were now fifteen. No problem: another chair was brought, with table service; plenty of room.

We ate simply, each ordering from the menu. I began with my beloved Cruda di Fossone alla monferrina con piccoli germogli e sbrisolona al parmigiano, veal tartare with little lettuce sprouts and crisp, cunning little Parmesan soufflés. The beef — what we called "baby beef" in my childhood, too mature to be veal, not yet full-grown beef — was sweet and clean, lightly seasoned, beautifully formed, and the tiny lettuces — which I've never had before — complemented it perfectly.

Next, a plate of Bottoni all'uovo Ricotta e Spinai novelli con pesto leggero di pomodori secchi, olive taggiasche e pinoli: good-sized round ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach with a light "pesto" combining sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and pine nuts, in a butter so sweet, floral, and grassy you knew you were in Piedmont, whose cows provide the best butter in the world as far as I'm concerned…

Dessert: Zuppetta di ciliegie al Malvasia di Casorzo, meringa alla liquerizia e gelato alla Viola. This was an extraordinary thing, I think: a "soup" of strongly flavored local cherries, neither sour nor sweet, sweetened with the wine, set off by crisp little meringues discreetly flavored with licorice, and softened by a beautifully made violet-scented ice cream. What a combination of flavors and textures! A marvelous creation…

Arneis, Roero, 2014; Grignolino, Bricco del Bosco, 2014; Dolcetto

•Ristorante Il Centrale, Piazza Giuseppe Romita 10, Moncalvo; 0141 917126

☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants