Genoa

Portland, Dec. 8—

I'VE WANTED to eat at Genoa, in Southwest Southeast Portland, for years, but was never able to talk Lindsey into it — too staid, rich, and expensive to suit her. Then, last year, it closed, and I figured my chances had run out.
But it re-opened last week, with a new young chef and a reconfigured format, and today we were there for a very satisfying lunch, four of us.
We split fritto misto, foccaccia, and cannelini-and-kale toasts; I went on to a stinco di maiale with beans. Dessert was a fine almond and apple tart with vanilla ice cream. I suspect I'll be back.

Sangiovese di Toscana, Az. Agr. Silla D., ?2007